On vacation. Describes a visit to Jsu Ishkari to see "the Aino," a people that emigrated from their home country of Saghalien after Japan exchanged it for Russia's Kririle islands. Undertakes an Aino tea ceremony ("some of the worst tea I ever tasted") and converses with a tribesperson, hearing how little they like Japan and how their people's deaths outnumber their births. Brooks theorizes of his interlocutor that "his race will probably become extinct at no very distant day." NOTE: The Aino (or Ainu) are an ethnic minority in Japan who mostly reside on Hokkaido.